Why install a free float handguard?

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How To Install Free Floating Rail On Ar 15
Free Floating My M&P-15 Sport - Page 1 - AR15.COM

How-To: Installing A Free-Floated Handguard On Your AR-15 ...

One of the main benefits to free-floating an AR-15 is an increase in accuracy from reduced variability in the barrel harmonics due to sling tension. The traditional AR-15 configuration has the sling mount attachment at the base of the front sight gas block, so moderate changes in sling tension can change the point of impact downrange. A direct impingement AR-15 can never be truly “free-floated” due to the attachment of the gas block and gas tube, but the addition of a quad rail or other free float style handguard can help with accuracy and also provides a stable and convenient platform for attaching bipods, lights, grips and other accessories.

What do I need to install a free float quad rail handguard?

Easier to install than an extended free float rail The installation of an extended free float handguard on a carbine length AR-15 can be a hairy process. It involves removal of the A2 front sight/gas block assembly and installation of a low profile gas block. You will also need to remove the delta ring. Quoted: I've got a Colt 6920 with A2 fixed front sight and drop in handguard. I'd like to convert it to a 13' or 15' free float handguard. As far as parts, I figure I just need the handguard kit barrel nut and hardware plus a low profile gas block. I'm considering a SLR Rifleworks or BCM handguard. I have no special tools for this.

When planning your free-float project, take a close look at the type of gas system currently on your rifle. Most standard front sight gas blocks are held onto the barrel by either tapered pins or by clamps. Make sure you have all the right tools and parts on hand for disassembly and reassembly before starting work.

Step-by-Step Installation

As always, before working on any firearm make sure it’s unloaded and safe to handle.

1. First, remove the original handguards using a handguard removal tool.

2. Separate the upper and lower receivers and remove the bolt carrier group and charging handle.

3. Clamp the upper receiver into a vise using a vise block and remove the flash hider and crush washer. The crush washer will not be reused.

4. Tap out the gas tube roll pin with a #2 roll pin punch and inspect the front sight gas block. If it has tapered pins, drive them out with a cup tip punch from the small side. If unsure, measure the pin diameter on each side first. If the pins are difficult to remove, apply penetrating oil, let sit overnight and try again. Sometimes applying light heat to the area also helps with removal.

5. If the gas block is a clamp-on type, use a hex key to loosen the set screws. Remove the original front sight gas block assembly from the barrel. If it sticks, gently tap on it with a soft-faced hammer until it slides off the barrel. Remove the handguard retainer and gas tube.

6. On a bench block, align the gas tube through-hole (with the large hole facing down) into the new gas block and use a roll pin holder to start the roll pin. Drive the roll pin flush with the gas block.

7. Remove the original barrel nut/delta ring assembly with the armorer’s wrench, then clean and inspect the upper receiver threads.

8. Remove the anti-rotation screw from the bottom of the new handguards and unscrew the new barrel nut, removing it from the handguards. Apply a thin layer of high quality lithium moly grease to the inside threads of the barrel nut, install it over the barrel so that the lock ring faces toward the upper receiver, then hand-tighten the barrel nut.

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9. Set your torque wrench to 30 ft/lbs and tighten the barrel nut using your armorer’s wrench. Remove the torque wrench and loosen the barrel nut with the armorer’s wrench (never loosen with a torque wrench).

10. Re-torque to 30 ft/lbs, then remove the torque wrench and loosen again. Torque to 30 ft/lbs one more time and inspect the alignment between the barrel nut hole and the gas tube hole in the upper receiver. This three-time torque sequence allows the threads on the upper receiver and barrel nut to mate more completely.

11. Without exceeding 60 ft/lbs, tighten the barrel nut until the gas tube hole in the upper receiver and the hole in the barrel nut align perfectly. The holes should line up at about 35 foot-pounds of torque, and the gas tube should be centered in the barrel nut hole without touching the edges. Do not partially loosen the barrel nut to achieve alignment – if need be, loosen the nut completely and re-tighten to align correctly.

12. Apply blue threadlocker onto the gas block set screws and slide the gas block assembly onto the barrel, making sure the gas port in the barrel aligns with the hole in the gas block. Tighten the set screws on the gas block securely.

13. Next, loosen the lock ring and carefully thread the quad rail onto the barrel nut for a couple turns. Apply blue threadlocker onto the outside barrel nut threads and screw on the quad rail.

14. Adjust the lock ring and handguard until the top rail (marked “T”) is almost aligned with the rail on the upper receiver. Use a strap wrench and carefully tighten the handguard until snug. Be careful not to over-tighten; if too much torque is applied, it can misalign the barrel nut and gas tube underneath.

15. You can check for proper gas tube installation using the bolt carrier at this time: insert the bolt carrier group (without the charging handle) into the upper receiver and slowly slide it forward, checking to make sure the carrier gas key doesn’t bind on the gas tube.

How To Install Free Floating Rail On Ar 15

16. Take a reading with your level across the top of the upper receiver and compare it with the level of the quad rail. Adjust the quad rail rotation until it matches the level of the upper receiver.

17. Reinstall the muzzle device with a new crush washer and align it correctly (flash hiders generally with the vented ports facing upward; muzzle brakes generally with the ports facing sideways).

Free Floating My M&P-15 Sport - Page 1 - AR15.COM

18. Then apply blue threadlocker onto the anti-rotation screw on the bottom of the handguard, install it, and tighten until snug.

19. Reinstall the charging handle and bolt carrier group, then reassemble the upper and lower receivers and you’re done!

If you are at all familiar with the AR-15 quad rail market, you are probably familiar with the two main styles of quad rail handguard - drop-in and free float. If you are not familiar, you can refer to our handy guide discussing the pros and cons of each.
Now allow me to throw another option into the mix - the Carbine Length AR-15 Drop-in Quad Rail with Forward Extension. Sometimes referred to as the Extended Carbine Length Drop-in Quad Rail or the Carbine Length Drop-in Quad Rail with A2 FSP Cutout, this rail is designed to combine many of the benefits of the drop-in and free float rails.
More rail space than the standard carbine length drop-in rail.
Unlike the standard drop-in quad rail which extends only to the rear of the A2 front sight post, the quad rail with forward extension extends several inches beyond the A2 front sight post. It has a cutout on top for the front sight post and on the bottom for the sling and bayonet attachments. Everything installs in place around the front sight without any gunsmithing involved.
This gives you a bit more flexibility in accessory placement or hand placement You can attach your flashlights or bipods up front and still have room to handle your rifle at the near end of the rail.
Easier to install than an extended free float rail
The installation of an extended free float handguard on a carbine length AR-15 can be a hairy process. It involves removal of the A2 front sight/gas block assembly and installation of a low profile gas block. You will also need to remo

Install Free Floating Rail Ar 15